Week Three - I love saying Artic Tundra

July 1st, 

Susan here.  

 

Amy and I spent a soggy weekend doing wash, running errands and going for a very long and fairly unpleasant tundra hike. We wanted to get out to the 'real tundra' which is well similar to the tundra in our beloved Pinky's Park. Unfortunately every time we decide to hike it starts to rain and every time we don't the sun comes out but we were determined. We slogged through a path that one of the local artists at the market told us was where all the wildlife was. This is afterall part of the Kuskokwim Deltla Wildlife Refuge so there should be something out here. We walked the crooked boardwalk which runs through Pinky's Park, the Central Park of Bethel. It's quite pleasant as it goes over the tundra without having to actually step in it. Once we got to the end of the town it was all slogging through the spongy tundra. It 's kind of fun as it's bouncy and made up of grasses, mosses, small flowers and lakes. Unfotunately on this rainy cold Sunday it was also made up deep sections of mud. At one point we saw a small lake with some openings in the hill beside it and surmised that it must be  a bear den. Up and down we went in the 48 degree rain certain that over the next hill some large mammal would pop up but alas none was to be found./ After two hours of this, with a swarm of mosquitos surrounding our hoods we began to feel a bit foolish, picked up some ten dollar milk on

the way home and watched a movie.

 

July 4th

 

Finally the sun came out and it 'warmed' up to about 60 degrees. Amy  and I took about 25 kids to march in the parade here which is really big here. It was great at first with kids riding decorated bikes and walking with a banner but then the people on the side started throwing candy - apparently a tradition here- and the kids started running all over the place to eat it. Amy and I spent the whole time running after four small ones who didn't listen to anything we said. But the local children are really cute here. They are Yupik eskimos and the small kids have round chubby faces, asian eyes and great laughs. They love to tease us as we do them.

After the parade we worked at the fair which had carnival games, burgers and agutak which is eskimo ice cream. They make it with crisco, salmon berries that they pick on the tundra and lots of sugar. Sometimes they even put fish in it. One of the guys gave us smoked salmon that he caught in the river here. The Yupik people have jobs but they also are subsistence fishers. Salmon is the most popular and it is running now so after work they take their boats out and fish. Then they bring it to fish camp where they hang it up to dry. They then put it in a smoke house to dry it and give it more flavor. Amy had it last night but I was too chicken to try it. It didn't look very appetizing but she said it tasted good.

 

July 6th

 Our last night in Bethel and already missing the kids. We went on a last Tundra walk and had a final dance party with the kids. Yesterday we did swimming and went to the US Fish and Wildlife office where we found maps of the Delta region. The kids showed us their home villages, I lost the bus keys again and managed to get the truck stuck in a ditch. Yes, in addition to a dilapated school bus I now drive a pick up. Cool

 

We had movie night at the house where we made macaroni and cheese. Little Nanci came and sat at the kitchen table whistling and teasing Amy and I. She is such a joy to be around.,well most of the time.

 

We had awards for the kids who helped us the most and they seemed to feel good. One was respect - that was James who talked with the elders, Donald a 12 year old who was great to be around and Nina and Daniele who showed to be the most helpful. They are Nanci's adopted sisters and have been through so much and have really shown maturity.We watched them walk home from the rec center and felt sad.

 

Amy as usual organized everything - boxes, clothes,food, packing, paperwork= while I did mot of the drinking coffee and talking. Sometimes I wish I could be as efficient as her! She doesn't seem to hate me yet so I'm hoping she doesn't figure out how useless I really am.

 

Tomorrow Rhonda takes us to the airport and on to our next adventure. Rhonda has been great - laid back and supporitive to work with while her husband John is full of energy. Her threes kids are amazing.

 

Goodbye Bethel. We love you.